Goodbye my friend

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i got a call from a friend last night. she left a message to call her back and i knew something was wrong because of the tone in her voice. i call her back and she broke the bad news. our good surfer friend Dwayne Scharsch has passed away. OMG. yes, the same Dwayne that drowned at sandy beach 2 months ago and went into a coma. he woke up 3 weeks later feeling like nothing happened. i talked to him on the phone shortly after that and you could just tell that he wanted to get back in the water. Dwayne loved surfing more than anybody i know. he would surf for hours and hours everyday searching for the best waves. december 22 he made his re entry into the lineup and i was there to see the miracle right in front of me. we surfed bowls the next 3 days together and things were back to normal. he was the same Dwayne doing turn after turn on the best waves that came in. we were all happy to see him back. all the hugs and all the aloha.
yesterday evening, Dwayne was surfing with friends at a secret spot near makapuu. his body was found washed up on the rocks. he was taken to the hospital in critical condition where he passed away. i’m not too sure exactly what happened but that is shocking news to all of us. i started to get all the phone calls last night but didn’t want to answer. i was already in disbelief and still am. i’m sad that he will be gone forever, but at the same time, i’m happy that he got a second chance in life and maximized his time doing what he loved most, surfing. he woke up from heaven last month, caught 100 waves, spent christmas and new years with his family and friends, and went back to heaven. it’s a story that will change my life forever.

i took this photo at bowls on december 22, 2013 when dwayne made his comeback to surfing. i gave him a big hug and will never forget that moment. Dwayne, you will be missed my brother. The times we shared surfing contest and surfing perfect waves together will never be forgotten. We shall surf again together but next time, the waves will be never ending. Rest in peace!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide