surf north shore!!! i left my house this morning prepared for anything. my boards are now in a safe place on the north shore so i can surf anything, anytime. everybody is pretty much here so i’ll be surfing a lot this next month…
haleiwa was the spot this morning. i pulled up and seen some 8′ sets. it was inconsistent but when it came, it came. then i seen this japanese guy pull up in a rent a car, check the waves, then seen him pull out his 6’0 and start walking out towards the beach. i already knew that he was in danger but didn’t want to say anything. i watched him try to paddle out. then i lost him as the sets started coming in. 20 minutes later, i seen him on the beach. thank goodness he made it back to the beach. just wanted to warn other daredevils, hey, check the waves for at least 30 minutes before paddling out. it could look small and fun but when the sets come, it ain’t fun. especially haleiwa. lifeguards come to work at 8:30 am so go out after that.
i surfed for a while and was lucky all day not to get cleaned up by a freak 6-8′ set. i figure, one more wave and i’m going in. as soon as i said that, the biggest set of the day came in and broke right in front of me. throw my board and swim under? no, maybe broken board. duck dive and get pounded? yeah, i’ll try. i duck dive, the explosion of the wave rips the board out of my hands and i hear a “CRACK” as the board hits my nose. “SHIT”, BROKEN NOSE? i grabbed my nose and it was in pain. i get pounded by 3 more sets and paddle in. i feel my nose, it hurts but not broken. “what the heck was that “crack” noise?” i look at my board and there is a big ding on the rail. yeah, the impression of my nose. i hit it so hard that my nose went through my board? i should have been a boxer….
itai!!! i still can’t believe my nose is so dam hard. i iced it down and it feels better but i’m still feeling like pinocchio…
i check backdoor/pipe in the afternoon. looks shallow and dangerous. i wanted to get wet so i paddled out to backdoor, caught one wave, paddled to off the wall, caught one wave, and came in. enough surfing for me. tomorrow the swell is dropping and everywhere should be going off!! dawn patrol?
anyway, hope you had a great day too. sweet dreams and see you in the water tomorrow!!!
**hana ga itai!!! means “my nose hurts”….
