good evening. just came home from the north shore. haleiwa was overhead and pretty good this afternoon and not too many people out. saw kawabata-san’s son and inaba-san’s son ripping it up. those kids are going to get better and better…. the waves on the north shore are trying to clean up and hopefully be good this weekend. can’t wait…. anyway, have a great evening….
this is what diamond head looked like around 10am. it was waist high and actually really fun. i guess the sun made anything fun today….
the new “Surf Girl Roxy” book just came out last week and guess who got the cover? yeah, kelia…. this book is awesome. one of those collectors issue that can sit on the coffee table for years and years. i’m so happy for her…
my favorite photo in the book is this surfer mag. cover shot. this is not tom curren or kelly slater. this is lisa anderson. what a sick photo. guys dream of doing a turn like this. i remember when i first saw this cover. lisa anderson became my favorite female surfer since that day…..
this is another photo in the book which i like. yeah, read the t-shirt. “Clean your Beach”….
