i couldn’t believe how crowded laniakea was this morning. crazy!!! it looked like waikiki! i ended up surfing somewhere else that was pretty dam good. a few friends and long rides. everybody happy!
and i was happy to see these photos on Go-Naminori Official Blogger Nishizeko’s Blog! now i can relive the moment. a moment that happened so fast and a moment that wasn’t even supposed to happen. i truly believe that timing in everything and for this barrel, timing was everything. i remember this wave coming to me after being out for 5 minutes in the lineup. sometimes it takes me 3 hours to got a wave like this because backdoor is the hardest place in the world to catch a wave. a simple take off, a simple bottom turn adjust my speed to get me into the barrel, and when i saw the wave lineup like this, i already knew for sure i’m going to get a sick barrel!
i pull in right under the lip, stand up, drag my right hand in the wave to slow down so i can get deeper, then i’m smiling big time!
i stand there for a few seconds, let the lip go over my head, get spit out, and was the happiest surfer that day. thanks Nishizeko-san!!!!
anyway, big waves on the way! see you out there!!!!
