good evening. the buoy jumped up to 10 feet 20 seconds early this morning so i knew it was a matter of time the waves will get huge. sitting in the ocean knowing that in a few hours a massive 20′ swell is coming is pretty weird. you can see the ocean moving and doing strange things. it feels like the whole ocean is moving…
i surfed backdoor/pipe. the waves were super inconsistent but when they came, it came. i was sitting in the lineup with legend surfer jock sutherland. he told me some pretty cool stories about surfing pipeline in the 1960’s. about forecasting the waves by the clouds, birds, and feeling. then i was taking to legend skater/surfer jay adams. talking about the old indonesia days. just by surfing 2 hours today, i learned a lot about surfing history. can’t beat that classroom yeah?
heard there was a rockslide at diamond head yesterday? scary!!! the roads are closed so expect traffic!!!
as i was coming in with my boat the other day, i was passing by bowls watching the girls paddling canoe. that’s one thing i didn’t do before and would love to try. does anybody have a canoe i can borrow? haha.. by the way, look how blue the sky is. is hawaii paradise? i think so. and you know what? i’m so fortunate to be born and raised on this beautiful island. it wasn’t until i started traveling that i appreciated hawaii so much. the warm weather, the big waves, the clean water, the friendly people, and the most important, the aloha spirit[:?????$B!x(B???:] if you don’t know what i’m talking about, leave this island and you will find out that no place in the world is better than hawaii!!!
well, tomorrow the waves will be huge so it’s either surf the west side on a sunday with 100 other people, or go diving with 1 or 2 friends. what would you do? i already know my answer…
