good evening. long day so i’ll make it short. diamond head check @ 8 am. west swell so i went straight to bowls…
wanna know how fun bowls was? we surfed for 4 hours!! my longest session at bowls, and my longest session of the year… it was super clean and really sunny!! long rides all day long…
then we drove around the island from the east side. once we left sunny town, we passed through the likelike tunnel and it looked like another day on the east side. it was raining and dark. it was dark all the way around the island until we got back to waikiki. this is pipeline @ 3 pm. samukatta yo[:???:]
if i drive around the island, romy’s shrimp in kahuku is a must. after surfing for 4 hours this morning, i was so hungry i could have eaten a cow. romy’s was 1.5 hours later and i’m glad i waited. every bite was magic… this is risa-chan with her first romy’s experience….
i was explaining to risa-chan that the north and east side gets dark, cold, and rainy often. but town is always bright and sunny. sure enough, as we made our way back to waikiki, the rainbow was out, and so was the blue sky.
had a great day but i’m going down early tonight. long surf and long drive equals tired kirby. goodnight[:Zzz:]
