where did you surf yesterday? some went west, some went north, and most went south. it was super crowded everywhere being a saturday so i decided to head to a secret spot and surf with only a few guys. saw my friend seth mckinney out and had a great chat and surf with him. what a beautiful session surfing such a fun secret wave.
i still think some people have the eye when it comes to taking photos. you either have it or you don’t. take a look at this photo. that’s me paddling out yesterday early morning and either inaida-san or yuki-san took this photo. just by looking at this, you can feel the whole moment. kind of makes you want to be in the photo. i’m just glad it was me because i was feeling excited paddling out as the sun rose to a spot that not too many people know about.
then kimura-san and atsuko-san came to hawaii. and like always, they bring me a cooler full of fresh goodies. my favorite is the yamari shirasu! thank you yamari!
then i went surfing in the evening with kimura-san and hayato. the waves were pretty fun but it was super cold!!!
then yakiniku dinner time. atsuko-san, kimura-san, kinsan, kaishu tanaka, hayato maki, and me eating like hungry surfers. lots of good food, lots of good talk, and lots of good laughing.
still have these north winds so super cool in the morning and evenings. keep warm and keep on surfing!
