good morning. 6:15 am and the waves came way down on the north shore. it’s kind of dark but looks 2-3′. the swell is out of the north so rocky rights, pupukea, log cabins, and laniakea will probably be fun. i’m also looking at town and i see a lot of white wash. another small south swell? south winds today turning south/west by tomorrow. today will be a perfect day to surf the north shore. and tomorrow will be a perfect day to dive the east shore. and sunday will be a perfect day to barbecue. then next week south winds so good for surfing and diving!! wow, what a great year so far. i can’t wait to get into the water. see you out there!!!
just got my new boards. check out this TSSC mike woo. it’s a 6’1 and will be my short board for this winter. i’ll ride it anywhere on the north shore up to 5’….
i got glass on fins because i want to go back to the old days were i could feel the drive. now days, there are too many fins out that confuse me at times. this way, i can only ride it one way. and that’s the way i’m going!!!
a few people asked me the dimensions on my short board.
6’1 x 18 1/4 x 2 1/4.
these have been my dimensions for the past 15 years. even though i’m getting older, i refuse to go thicker and wider. i’d rater go over the falls… haha..
**and last, with the bad comes the good. 7 days after the deadly earthquake in haiti, a child is pulled from the rubble. BELIEVE…
