good evening. got back late this evening from the north shore. gosh, the waves were GOOD… i pulled up to backdoor around lunch time and got a few good waves…
it was 3-4′ and pretty dam good. not too many guys were out so i got a lot of waves. then i hung around on the beach for a couple of hours just watching the waves. it would be good, then junk, then good. it was doing that all day so i waited until it got good again. and yeah, 3pm got good and i was out there. i just went out and sat and waited for a good one cause i knew it was coming. so i waited and waited and then this a-frame 4′ backdoor set came in. this bodyboarder was paddling on the shoulder and was going to drop in but i yelled “ho, ho ho. merry christmas” and he pulled back. haha… just joking. it was just the ho, ho ho part. i pulled in behind the peak, got deep, and couldn’t see the exit but i just stayed on my board. then after a few seconds after, i got spit out. i was so stoked that i went in, jumped into my car, and had a happy drive all the way back to town. it was my first real barrel of the season and gosh, it felt dam good. getting barreled is the best feeling in the world…… can’t wait for tomorrow…. good night….
oh, while i was waiting between sessions, i seen these 2 girls riding horses on the beach… i was thinking what people would think if i was riding kalua on the beach like that. that would be classic..[:??$B”y(B???:][:??$B”y(B???:][:??$B”y(B???:]
isaiah moniz getting a taste of pipeline. broken boards are a part of surfing on the north shore so better get use to it….
shawn caught this fish the other week. this is called an “ishigakidai” in japanese and called the “knife jaw” in hawaii. shawn speared this on the island of oahu and came in 3/4lbs. short of the state record. this one was 55cm long. a big boy… somebody told me that these fish swam here from japan? really? all i know is that they are hard to find here and if you do, please spear it and give it to me. haha. i love this fish…. the white meat sashimi is so good….
this is the one i speared in japan a few years ago… it was 44 cm….
and this is what it looked like when morimoto-san cut it up for us…. so good…..
