i get up at 4:30am, drink some kombucha, eat some cereal, put on my jacket, load up my boards, put on the heater, and drive out to the north shore. while most of the island is sleeping, i’m buzzing! feeling high, feeling healthy, feeling fresh, and feeling like it’s going to be a good day. i pull up, it’s pitch dark, i smell the salt in the air, i heard the pounding waves, and it’s time to paddle out. i get some good waves, get barreled, and i’m on the beach my 9am feeling like i had one of the best days of my life. all the rest after that is just a bonus! i take a warm shower, take out my camera, and shoot the japanese surf session. check it out.
GO-NAMINORI OFFICIAL BLOGGER SHIMPEI HORIGUCHI has a new look. i didn’t even recognize him with his new mustache. a great surfer, cool guy, and funny boy. great package.
Grace rider x Dove rider. nice left at off-the-wall.
4D bottom turn.
Japanese superstar Mar Ohno going BIG! check out japanese photographer Kamio getting the sick fisheye photo! great teamwork!
Mason Ho on one of the best waves of the day. people ask me what i mean by “EPIC.” just look at this photo because this waves is “EPIC!!!” got it?
i love soul surfing.
under the lip at off the wall?
yes, bye bye surfboard! it’s like taking a $500 bill and ripping it in half. ouch!
more photos coming tomorrow soon. i have to eat dinner and sleep early because i have my important lifeguard and CPR training course tomorrow all day. ganbaruzo!
