good evening. i checked off the wall in the dark. could barely see. nobody was out. waves were 5′. would i be the first one out? nope. as i was going back to my car to grab my board, i see maoh toda running down the beach. shit!! so i was the second one out at off the wall. maoh and i had it to ourselves as it was getting lighted. good morning session. then i went back to my room to grab my camera. come back and….
see teppei tajima going back to his car with a broken board. another expensive day in the office….
that’s my dawn patrol tomodachi maoh toda on the left. matchi on the right paddled out as the sun came up, waited patiently for a set, caught a solid 6′ set, bottom turned, pulled in, got the barrel of the year, and came in. smart guy. matchi told me that was his best wave in his past 5 north shore seasons. i don’t think he knows that was the best wave of any japanese pro surfer of the year so far. wait till you see the photos!! and yes matchi, i got your shot. but i’m not showing it to you. haha…
this winter season had the biggest waves as far back as i can remember. that’s why all the beaches are strange. the sand doesn’t know when to come back anymore….
i surfed 3x today. and shot photos. a hard day of work deserves a great lunch. guess where this kahuku shrimp plate is from? yes, Romy’s… the best!!!
goodnight[:Zzz:][:Zzz:][:Zzz:]
