Goodbye Friend

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good evening. what a long day. going down to the beach at 7am and freezing cold. spent a few hours in the water, then followed by 4 hours in the classroom. learning new lifesaving techniques and learning how to save peoples lives. and i’m learning from the best so i’m super lucky. i hope i don’t have to use these skills but if that time comes, i’m ready. still have more hours to get my certification that will be good for the next 2 years.

and look what’s happening for the next 5 days. rain, rain, and rain. i love it!

today was our good friend Dwayne Scharsch’s funeral. surfers from all over the island met at magic island to do the paddle out at bowls. as everybody entered the water, i was amazed on how many people where there. Dwayne had so many family, friends, and loved ones. it was so sad sitting in the ocean watching his wife scatter his ashes at bowls. i have only good memories of Dwayne and i still feel that he got a second chance in life and did what he loved to do, surfing. i went to the tent after to write a memo for Dwayne, and there was this big picture hanging in a frame. the same picture i took at bowls the day he came back after being in a coma for weeks. this was his first day in the water since he drowned at sandy beach and i remember how happy he was after every wave he caught. that day will and this photo is my great memory of a great father, family man, surfer, and friend. goodbye Dwayne.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide