one of the most valuable lessons i learned in business college was to work on both sides of the business. after being a pro surfer for over 20 years, i learned how to work with photographers both in and out of the water. it was my job as a surfer to make a connection and work with one another to get the shot my sponsors pay me for, and for the photographer to get it published in a magazine. if both sides try hard, you will see results. then i started shooting photos 8 years ago professionally and now i know how hard it takes to get the shot, and how hard it is to make it happen. being on both sides of the business, i can honestly tell you that both jobs are hard and dangerous. i was shooting on the north shore the other week and was looking for the perfect example of team work. check out this sequence.
as a photographer, i’m mainly looking for friends, or japanese pro surfers. that’s my main focus because i love my friends, and i love japan. i surfed earlier that morning, ran in, grabbed my camera, and waited for the moment. then i see it coming from far away. i see a huge set rolling in and see Kaisa Kawamura in the perfect position. he sees it and he paddles for it. i point my camera and start shooting.
as he’s taking off, he’s looking down the line to see if any photographers are in the water. he then spots japanese pro photographer USKE swimming in the impact zone.
Kaisa takes off, looks forward, and keeps his knees bent making it look so easy.
i was looking through my 400mm lens so i could see his eyes looking right at USKE.
as he approaches, he’s calm, good face, and good style. all this time, USKE is swimming to get into position.
here USKE is probably shooting at 7 frames per second.
Kaisa stands tall as USKE couldn’t be in a better place.
the wave closes out, explodes like a bomb, risking a broken board or broken bones, Kaisa is still going. what happens after this is just a roll of the dice. some people come up laughing, some people die.
as i take this sequence, i get jealous because i would love to be in either of these guys place. to get a huge barrel like this is a feeling i can’t explain. and to be swimming in the water taking a fisheye photo like this is another awesome feeling. i love both. that’s why i really think i’m lucky to be able to choose what i want to do on any given day. surf or shoot.
so i want to thank my college professor that inspired me to do and challenge myself to every aspect of the business. to integrate forward and backwards is what i’ve been doing ever since my freshman class at UH. from surfing, to shooting, to designing, to editing, to videoing, to teaching. i love it all and hope to continue to do it for the rest of my life. you only live once so why not do everything you can possibly do? but what ever you do, you better enjoy it!
also want to thank Kaisa for pulling into that huge barrel, and thank GO-NAMINORI OFFICIAL BLOGGER USKE for keeping the young pro surfers dreams alive. see you guys in the water!
