good evening. today was the best day of the whole winter season that started back in october. it was sunny, the water was clean, the waves were clean, no winds, and a lot of happy faces…. i pulled up to backdoor at 7:20am, grabbed my board and was out there. i got another pretty sick barrel today. even better than yesterday so i was stoked. it got crowded after a while so i went in and grabbed my camera. check out these photos….. these ARE NOT the best shots. i’m sending those in to a magazine so you will have to wait.. gomen ne…
this is tony moniz. tony is the reason why i’m surfing the north shore. if i didn’t meet him back in the 80’s, i would be still surfing diamond head everyday…. thanks tony….
this kid is 11 years old and from japan. i think he’s the youngest japanese surfer to get barreled at backdoor. shinpei is taking care of him so he’s in good hands. expect this kid to blow up….
gosh, the kids are getting younger and younger. these 3 groms don’t know how lucky they are to come to hawaii and surf the north shore while their classmates are in japan playing jun ken po….
this is ushikoshi. he’s been here for a while finally got some sun and good surf today….
shinpei can surf from knee high beach breaks in japan to 25′ waimea bay. keep an eye on him….
japanese surfers always hang out on the beach after they surf. they seemed happy and i hope they were because today was the best day of the season so far. pro surfers matchi, ushikoshi, shimpei, and yukio. see you guys tomorrow…..
and last, the traffic is crazy out on the north shore. this is about 3pm on the way out of haleiwa today. this is by the stoplight and it’s stop and go all the way past chun’s reef….. be patient because it will take over an hour to move 2 miles….
**anyway, super tired and sunburned so i’m going to sleep now. it’s only 8pm but lights out…. more photos from backdoor tomorrow morning….
