good morning. 6:30 and the waves are going off!!! perfect backdoor/pipe right now. the contest should be on but i hope it isn’t. the swell is dropping and there are no winds. epic conditions on the north shore. town still has a small swell too. i’m going surfing!!! have a nice day….
everybody’s been asking “where’s all the sand??? here’s the answer. over there at pupukea. the sandbar is going out to the lineup. the next small clean day might be looking more like kirra….
i was over at tamura’s the other day and seen this bottle. it looked familiar. a friend gave me this as a present after i graduated from high school. i had no clue what it was and kept it under my bed for years and years. one day i was cleaning up because i was moving to japan back in 1992 and found it. my friend came over and offered me $700 cash for the bottle and box. i said “shoots” which means “yes” in pidgen language. come to find out, it was an expensive bottle of Remy Martin Louis XIII. a bottle on sale cost $1729.99. eeh???? i should have kept it. i heard the just the crystal bottle alone is worth $500. oh well….
i was watching the pipe contest yesterday and seen keito matsuoka get a sick pipe wave. he didn’t make this barrel so they scored him a 3.67. if he had made it, he probably would have gotten a 9.5. but it was ok because he made it through the heat anyway…. good luck tomorrow boys…
and last, wanted to thank kimura-san for this cool present he brought all over from bali. Jack-san is going on my wall!!! stoked!!!
