well, say goodbye to the nice variable wind days and say hello tomorrow to the tradewinds. the weathers been weird as usual during these months, but it’s looking like normal tradewind days from tomorrow. some solid north/west swells starting to show tomorrow afternoon. they still didn’t run a day of the volcom pipe pro and i’m pretty sure they have to do it tomorrow because they need 4 days to complete the contest. south shore should go down by tomorrow. had some fun waves this week in town. super clean, super fun, and super uncrowded.
Kimura-san wanted to eat local style dinner so i took them to a secret local style spot last night. i know they have live hawaiian music every night but i had no idea who was playing last night. i walked in and seen Ernie Cruz Jr. setting up. OMG! Ernie Cruz was the lead singer and guitar of the famous Ka’au Crater Boys. songs like Surf, You Don’t Write, I Hear Music, etc…. he lives right near my house and is one of the best artists coming out of hawaii. lucky!!!! he sang some Kalapana songs for us too. what a wonderful hawaiian style night!
every afternoon about 4 or 5pm, i call Kimura-san and tell him “let’s go surf!!!” he’s in afternoon nap mode and always tells me “the waves are small, i’m tired, or no thank you.” i say “no! i’m coming now so get your board ready and meet me on the beach.” he comes, we paddle out, and he catches some good waves. and every evening as we paddle in watching the beautiful sunset go down, he says “good thing we came out.” i always feel the same way. it takes a lot of motivation to go out and surf in the evenings, but every single time, it’s worth every minute, and every wave. and the beer right after tastes much better too.
you know how smart the bad people in hawaii are? or should i say dumb? take this girl for example. a car enters my friends condo garage at diamond head, this girl sneaks in with a cheap junky bicycle after the car before the garage door closes. she walks around, looks for a better bicycle, steals it, and rides away. little does she know she’s getting filmed. now the police are looking for her. and because hawaii is so small, i’m sure she will get caught. hey girl, “nice try! you’re lucky you didn’t steal my bicycle. i would hunt you down! and take that roxy bag off your shoulder, you don’t surf! shame on you!”
