good evening, pulled up to backdoor/pipe early this morning and it was perfect. 6-8 and as good as it gets. the contest was on so everybody was out practicing. should i go out and hassle with everybody? no thank you. instead, i headed over to haleiwa and….
scored!!! not too many guys out, 3-5′ and long rights. matchi and i were taking turns going wave after wave for 1 hour. then everybody else came out and it got crowded. so i headed back to pipe to watch the contest and….
ugly!!! the waves were small, onshore, and ugly. i couldn’t believe how fast it went from good to bad. lunch time came and….
we all headed to romy’s. yup, i ate there 4 or 5x so far this year and i’m not finished yet. i love it there!!! remember to order the #1 with prawns instead of shrimp. awesome!!!
speaking of good to bad. pipeline is a tricky wave and even the best pro surfers can lose at any time out there. last week, shun and i paddled out to 4′ shitty onshore junky pipe in the evening for a surf. what a lot of surfers don’t understand that you can’t only be a barrel specialist to win contests out there. you have to be able to read the ocean, swell, and be able to do turns to make heats. how do you think taj burrow won the pipeline masters last december? by turns. the waves out there can get good to bad in a matter of minutes so you better be prepared. and preparing yourself is pretty easy. get out there on the shitty junky days and surf it. just by shun surfing that shitty evening out there, he learned a lot more than the surfers that just surf it when it’s good.
the point i’m trying to say is that a lot of parents ask me how can their kids get better in surfing. the answer is pretty simple. surf, surf, and surf. go the the beach before the sun comes up, and go home after the sun goes down. just by surfing and hanging out at the beach all day, you will learn a lot about the ocean, weather, tides, waves, and also make friends. i call it “hands on experience” and you can’t get it sitting in your room and taking naps everyday. do you think kelly slater did that? heck no… so for you young kids, go down to the beach in the morning and go home at night. i guarantee you will be ahead of the rest of the competition…. don’t read books, read the ocean. don’t take naps, do snaps…. hope that knocks some sense into you….
