Sunny Hawaii Surfing Day 2….

365

good evening. went out to backdoor this morning when it was still dark. the waves came down from yesterday but still super clean and fun. i surfed for an hour and shot for an hour. it was the second picture perfect day of the winter season. no winds and no clouds…. super sunny and felt super so good…. check out the action today…

i pulled up super early and matchi was already getting ready for the dawn patrol session. check out the sun just coming up from behind the mountain….. norihiko nakayama….

naohisa ogawa also paddled out super early. going backside at backdoor is kind of dangerous because it’s shallow and there’s no channel. if i were a goofy footer, i wouldn’t want anything to do with backdoor. here is naohisa getting ready to bash the lip….

ushikoshi also paddled out early. we call this move in surfing “12’O Clock”, or “Straight Up”…..

shinpei horiguchi giving everybody in japan a peace sign….[:?????$B!x(B???:]

gosh, when i downloaded this photo today, i thought this was tony moniz. but tony wasn’t out today. this is joshua moniz… a mini tony….

this grom got the set of the day. seth moniz pulling in before school starts…
**more photos coming tomorrow morning…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide