i surfed with the coolest group of hokkaido surfers yesterday. Tetsuya-san, Emi-chan, and Sakai-san were super surprised that nobody else was out in the ocean. so was i. so we ended up catching every wave that came in. some days you are just lucky! and when i asked them if the water was cold, they told me, “this is oyu.” in english, that means hot water. i guess when you come from freezing hokkaido, everything is hot here in paradise. but for us living here in hawaii, the water is pretty dam cold!
then i surfed with the Inaida-san group in the afternoon. same thing, nobody out. we scored some great waves! and the cool thing about surfing is that it can sometimes be dangerous. high risk, high return. here is Inaida-san’ back after fighting with the reef. itai! but it’s these kind of scratches that make you feel like you challenged yourself. and you know what? it feels really good!
remember this girl hanging around the diamond head area stealing bikes? this was a week ago when she stole a nice expensive bike from the condo parking lot.
guess what? she came back!!!! 2 days ago, she walked in before the gate closed, and stole another bike. OMG! please help me identify this girl. i wish i catch her in the garage. know what i would do? i would tackle her, hold her down, and smash her hands up so she could never steal again. then i would call the police. watch out girl because i’m looking for you. i’m in that garage 6x a day and if i see you in there, you better run for your life!
