yesterday was such a long day. in the ocean for 5 hours and loving it. i surfed in the morning with Mr. and Mrs. Chuma. the nicest couple from nara prefecture. the water was clean, the sun was out, the sky was blue, and the waves were perfect. what more could you ask for?
it was Junko-san’s first time surfing. it was so good to see the smile on her face as she experienced the best life of all, the surfing life.
Chuma-san didn’t surf for years. but after his first wave, he got it all back. he told me that their new surfing lives will start from now. live healthy, and live happy! i wish you both the best!
please enjoy the rest of your trip in hawaii and hope to see you in the water again someday. keep on surfing!
afternoon surf session coming soon. have a beautiful day!
