how awesome has the weather been? omg, i went out to the north shore a few times recently and it’s been super rainy, cloudy, and dark. then as i make my way back to town, the sun is just beaming and the skies are super blue. good for surfing, good for photos, and good for everybody. been having some good afternoon sessions with practically nobody around. just us and the whales, dolphins, turtles, and sharks. i love the winter months in town!
one of my dreams in life was to share the sport of surfing to people from all different parts of life. i always knew it was never too late to start surfing and Inaida-san is a good example of that. once you start, you can’t quit. and once you start, your life will never be the same. it just gets better and better.
while tokyo snows, hawaii shines. no wetsuit, no cold, and no problem. Inaida-san getting better and better each and every day. i think we’re ready for mentawai!
Yuki-san gets the most complements on her surfing and surfboards. the locals can’t believe how good she’s gotten in such a short time. and all the locals look at her surfboard and wish they had it. once Yuki-san starting riding Kelia Moniz’s personal magic surfboard, her surfing level has gone up and up. this has to be one of the most wanted surfboards in the world right now. to own the world champions magic board has to feel pretty dam good. you can look at it, but you can’t touch it! haha.
i just called Kelia last night to get another board from her. it’s only a matter of time when i get one and guess who will own it? yup, this girl Yuki-san. good surf, good board, and good smile equals good life!
Satoko is the best diver instructor in the world. she’s the kind of girl that would risk her life for yours. on our first dive trip to indonesia, we were deep under water and she swam up to me and pulled my mask off my face. i will never forget that. haha. her favorite line is “don’t worry, everything is going to be alright.”
peace!
people say as you get older, life gets better. i’m a true believer and every year seems to get better and better. more surf, more memories, more friends, and more laughter. you can’t beat that!
