good evening. check out the conditions this morning at backdoor/pipe. the waves were small but it was such a beautiful day. look good and you can see somebody getting barreled…. the waves were coming up throughout the day and it was solid 5′ and perfect by evening. tomorrow? yeah, it’s going to be epic and probably the best day of the year!!! the backdoor shootout will probably get started tomorrow so i’m going to wake up early and sneak in an early morning session…. 7’0’s in the car ready to go… have a great evening….
check out this photo. this is some where in japan. do you know where? back in 1996, i was with todd mitsui and mike woo during a jpsa contest going on at tsujido. i was supposed to surf the contest but up the road, the waves were going off so i free surfed instead. i’m glad i had understanding sponsors…. i use to surf this spot on small days and it was pretty fun. but this day there was a typhoon swell and the waves were barreling.. nobody was out so we were on it. shortly after this session, a surfer died by hitting the wall so they closed this spot and nobody could surf there ever again… i think i got barreled on every wave that day… todd surfed it backside and said it was pretty heavy. one mistake and your going to be sashimi on the wall…. another good memory….
*check out these next 2 photos. i was looking at them and just tripping out how similar they are….
joshua moniz one day ago….
and tony moniz two days ago… same blood, same style….
and last, check out the new 2008 surfing world calendar…. mr. april, hayato maki doing a bottom turn at a secret location in the philippines….
