yesterday was the kind of day you stay in bed watching a movie. it was raining, dark, cold, windy, and the waves weren’t so good. well, that’s what i thought. we drove to the north shore anyway knowing the wind was bad and the conditions were ugly.
first stop was haliewa. i saw 2-4′ waves and looked so so. we grabbed our boards and paddled out anyway because there were only a few surfers in the water. then it just started getting bigger and bigger, and better and better. some solid 5-6′ sets with lots of power. i figured out that the first wave in the set was junk, and the second one was smooth because the first one made the ocean calm. i let the first ones go and went only for the second ones. the waves were good! i was even lucky to get a barrel. rode my matchi shape tssc 6’3 and had an awesome 2 hour session. it was one of those days you tell yourself “i’m glad i went out there!” pure satisfaction on the drive home.
always good to see japanese surfers in hawaii. wanted to say hello to Team BOB Surf from Tokushima.
and also wanted to say hello to Team Selection from Nagoya.
the current at haleiwa was as strong as it gets pulling right to left. i was tired but not tired enough to rush back to town and surf ala moana. it was chest high, sunny, and oh so perfect! what an awesome surfing day.
