i had such a great time surfing with Onozato-san this morning. she’s only been surfing for a year and i was surprised on how good she was. i asked her what was her goal for today. she told me “i want to turn.” so after a few waves she was turning right, left, and riding the waves all the way in. her surfing level and paddling level went up a lot after this mornings session. a very talented surfer!
speaking of talent, i really think you have to have a good eye to be a good photographer. some people have it, some people don’t. Yuki-san has they eye and has the talent. look at this beautiful photo she took at haleiwa yesterday. the sun, the rain, the blue sky, the clouds, the rainbow, the coconut trees, the waves, the surfers, and the ocean. all in one photo!!!! that’s satoko and me right before we paddled out for a great session!
here’s another one Yuki-san took. i always tell people to look very good before paddling out to any surf spot. haleiwa is the hardest and most dangerous places in the world to surf when it gets big. the current, the bumps, the freak sets, and the crowd. it takes time to figure this spot out but once you do, you will have the time of your life!
went surfing this afternoon at ala moana with Team Inaida-san. guess what everybody. there is a super nice east swell that is making perfect long waves. and it seems nobody knows about it because nobody is out. we scored once again!
north shore coming up to 8′ tomorrow. south fun too. enjoy!
