good morning. wow, i’m totally sunburned and feel like i’m on fire. my skin is black, my eyes are red, and my body is tired. before i went to sleep last night, i was thinking about all the things i’ve been doing these past few weeks. maybe too much for a normal person. am i overworking myself? but after i got up, i’m feeling energetic and pretty dam happy. my batteries are charged and i’m going to keep going, going, and going….
as for the waves? it’s 5 am and buoy 1 is 5 feet 12 seconds. no wind and clear skies. today will be 2-4′ and an epic day of surfing on the north shore. see you out there….
we had a fun dinner at kinsan’s house the other night. good food, good people, and good vibe!!
take out chinese, atsuko-san’s special dish, hayato’s tako sashimi, and much much more!!!
**finally i got a chance to download all the photos i took in the past 2 days. all 689 of them. i haven’t had a chance to go through them all but here’s a sneak preview.
i paddled out yesterday early morning with wade tokoro. an hour later, my friend chris won paddled out and said “When Wade is surfing out here early in the morning, you know it’s going to be a good day.” and it was a good day indeed….
maoh and i were getting barreled at backdoor before the sun came up. then around 9am, i seen him get 2 sick back to back barrels. this was one of them. both he made!! then he paddled in. i told him “Maoh, go home already. You got barreled all morning. Go home and relax all day.” Maoh did a great job and i truly feel that once you get good barrels, come in. don’t stay out and get greedy because that’s when you get hurt or break your board. like how i did yesterday. haha.. but maoh was the man yesterday at backdoor and i wanted to congratulate him!!! it just shows that hard work pays off!!!
guess who’s here? yup, kairi noro!! the funniest kid you’ll ever meet…
one kid that’s really impressing me is ma-kun. it’s ma-kun’s first season here on the north shore and he’s turning heads. he surfs good, he charges big waves, he’s quiet, and he’s super photogenic. meaning, easy to shoot. i shot vland yesterday afternoon and got so many good photos of him. this one is a throw away. i got way better ones….
**and last. i was surfing pipeline the other day and one of the pipe locals paddled out and told me. “hey, who’s that kid surfing the inside left’s with the orange surfboard? oh my gosh, he’s ripping!!” i looked in to see who it was. it was shun murakami….
much more photos coming soon….
