i had such a great morning session with Kondo-san. a really energetic girl that is hooked on surfing. once she started, she couldn’t stop. i was so happy to see her surfing level improve so much today. thank you Tetsu-san for introducing me to Kondo-san. the more people surfing, the happier world it would be.
then went surfing this afternoon with Inaida-san and Yuki-san. the waves were perfect! good long rides and good smiles. always having fun in and out of the water.
the carnival cruiser had been broken for days. it started off with a fire, then no water and toilets. people are stealing, people are freaking, and people are pissed. there are over 4,000 people on board and i’m glad i ain’t one of them because i would probably jump overboard and swim to shore. what a crazy situation.
so carnival said they will reimburse the passengers $500 and give them credit for another trip. haha. who would want to take another trip on a cruiser after this? not me.
well, small perfect south swell rolling in. north shores coming up to 8′ tomorrow with the strong east winds. i bet some good pipe/backdoor. i haven’t been so surfed out in my life. spending 5 hours/day in the water is making me sleep like a baby. and when i wake up, i just want to surf again! have a great evening.
