good morning. GO-NAMINORI!!! see you in the water….
2 weeks ago, hayato and i went diving all day off the east side. the next day, he surfed 8-10′ sunset beach and told me, “wow, after all that diving yesterday, sunset felt like 2′.” that made me really think how important free diving is to surfing. long time ago when tony use to drag me out on big north shore days, i swear i thought i was going to die every time a 15′ set would break on my head. and there were a lot of times. i had a lot of confidence on riding big waves, but zero confidence on surviving big waves. but now that i’ve been diving, i feel relaxed and a lot more confident in big waves. knowing how deep you can go and how long you can hold your breath, it helps when you see 15′ of white wash ready to come down on your head. a lot of surfers these days are getting into free diving and i think that’s really good. weight training is good, yoga is good, swimming is good, but the best way to raise your confidence in the ocean is to free dive. try it and you’ll know exactly what i’m saying…
i came back from traveling last december out of shape. i was injured so i couldn’t do anything. 2 months later after all the free diving and surfing i’ve been doing, my mind, body, and soul is back to where i want it to be. i’m ready for anything!!
so after our dive the other day, satoshi, hayato, kenji and i were talking about if our sponsors would be mad because we dive so much. satoshi said “it’s training.” that’s so true and i hope our sponsors understand that. i hope i can encourage more surfers to get into the sport. you don’t have to spear fish, just keep training to dive deep and long and the next time a 15′ set breaks on your head, you’ll be laughing…
the best thing about it is nothing beats the rewards of this sport. good exercise, confidence booster, and fresh sashimi for everyone!!![:?????$B!x(B???:]
