Gray Hawaii?

320

good evening. OMG, the weather was terrible today! i had planned a whole day photo shoot but because of the rain, it was cancelled. yeah, i could have done it, but there is no way i want to take dark gloomy photos so i will try again next week. well, weather permitting. it supposed to get even more windier and continue to rain for the next 5 days. i’m starting to feel sorry for the tourists in hawaii now because it full on winter now. rain, clouds, and cold! yuck! small north/west swell next week, and small south/west swell tomorrow is forecasted. have a wet wonderful evening!
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ok, i put myself into photographer mode. pack my camera and head to the west side. i couldn’t believe how good makaha was. by far, the best and cleanest spot on the island. 3′ sets and perfect! the only bummer thing is i didn’t have my surfboard! kurushi!
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if the sun was out and the sky was blue, this photo could have been a postcard. oh well, try next time.
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driving back to town looked like this. wet, windy, and cold. i hope tomorrow will be a better and brighter day.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide