Crazy Winter Wonderland

316

omg, what a crazy day it was. i was driving around in the pouring rain, getting soaked, going into cold air condition stores, and i think my body shut down. it was the first time this year i used the heater of my car seat. kept my ass warm and made me sleepy. haha. snow on the big island, heavy rain on maui and oahu, a hiker drowns on kauai trying to cross a stream, and accidents everywhere. it was safer to be indoors today. tomorrow, same wind but the weather should be clearing up.

i was going through my photos and found this one of my friend and shaper Matchi. it was one super early morning out at 6′ Off The Wall when we connected. as soon as he took off, i knew i was going to get the shot. gosh, i miss shooting big waves from the impact zone. hope it gets good soon!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide