good morning. 6:30 am on this presidents day. sunny skies, no wind, and waves everywhere. i just seen a few barrels at backdoor/pipe. 3-5′ and clean. only 3 guys out. town still has some small waist high waves. today is looking like a good north shore day. i think everywhere will be good. see you out there!!!
they just opened up tutti frutti right down my street. in my opinion, it’s much better than yogurt land….
besides eating tutti frutti yogurt, these 3 girls have been working hard. they have been filming in the water everyday last week for the upcoming bethany hamilton hollywood movie. yeah, these girls will all be movie stars!! kelia is starring as “kelia moniz.” isn’t that cool? she has surfing parts and also dialog parts. i think kelia is going to blow up after the movie comes out. world champion surfers? movie stars? it’s all in these 3 girls hands….
i walked outside my house and seen this aloe growing out of the sidewalk. did you know that aloe is used by hawaiians for medicine for cuts and burns? it does wonders…
wanted to thank kazu-san for sending me this photo. i’m going down to this store to check it out….
and last, the waves have been big all around the island so i haven’t been diving. maybe that’s why i’m so stressed out recently… help!! get me back in the water!!!
