good evening. it was a day of morning sickness out on the north shore. early morning the waves were bumpy and kind of weird. but i had a feeling that as the day goes on, the trade winds will kick in and clean up everywhere…
this was backdoor around 8 am. matchi and i were watching it and decided to surf somewhere else…
we made the right call by going to haleiwa. the waves were sooo fun and not too many guys were out. we caught so many good rights!! saiko!!! after we ate lunch, matchi and i planned to meet at velzyland at 2 pm for an afternoon session…. and guess what? the waves were ALL TIME!!! the best velzyland i’ve ever seen… barrel after barrel….
matchi caught so many good waves. absolutely no local pros were out so it was a japanese session with matchi, maoh, rikiya, yumi, and a few others….
i called josh and seth this morning and told them to get their asses out here. so they called uncle jake and got a ride. i hope they thank me because if i wasn’t the irritating uncle, seth wouldn’t have been in this barrel. he would have been doing a small cutback at kewalos. haha… i got the most craziest photos today. i forgot my card reader so this is the only way to see it…
yumi-chan is maoh’s wife. i’ve seen her paddle out to velzyland and get hassled and dropped in all the time. but she never gives up. she’s out there all the time trying really hard. and if you keep on trying hard, it will pay off in the end. after getting dropped in on a few times, the magic wave came straight to her. i seen it coming and was yelling “go, go, go!!” she took off, the wave tripled up, most people would go straight because she was way too deep. instead, she set her rail and pulled into the biggest, heaviest, thickest barrel i’ve ever seen at velzyland. i thought she was going to die, then she somehow came out. what???? i was yelling!!! i was so happy!!! the photo sequence i took of her is cover shot material. i’ve never seen a photo like this of a japanese girl getting so dam barreled. this is 2 shots before the ultimate photo i’ve ever taken of a bodyboarder. the bummer thing is i’m not posting it. you’ll have to wait and see where it comes out….
**and yumi-chan, if you want to see it, call me tomorrow and i’ll show it to you. you’ll be stoked!!!
