Photogenic….

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i was looking through some old galleries today and came across some cool photos. this was shikoku on august 31, 2009. that day was pretty dam good!!! i still can’t get tamaki-san’s barrel out of my head. i wish that was me…. haha..

this is kaishu’s father enjoying a barrel right in front of his house…

the last big day out at pipe, my friend chris won broke his bodyboard in 2 pieces. what? that was the first time i’ve seen something like that. how the heck can a sponge break into 2 pieces??? anyway, if you don’t know chris, he’s the one in the movie “North Shore” that made him famous. cool guy….

and last, reika noro is really photogenic. i took 162 photos of her today and i only had to delete 2. and that’s because it was out of focus. my bad. even for this photo, i was just testing out my camera. since the first time i met this girl, i knew she had the looks and talent to get to most places girls her age can only dream of. reika’s getting cuter and cuter and her surfing is getting better and better. mark my words, “this girls going to be famous.”

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide