Entrapment???

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good sunday morning. BIG WAVES on the north shore. 8-10′ with second reef sets breaking. the swell looks out of the north so sunset will probably be the best spot today. watching pipeline now and 50 bodyboarders are on it. seen a few barrels but nothing spectacular yet. well, gotta get my 7’6 gun out and get ready for some big waves today. see you in the water..

i was shooting in town yesterday. it was sooo beautiful!!! i forgot to bring my card reader so the photos are stuck in my camera. hopefully get to download them tonight…

i parked my car yesterday at my place on the north shore. as i was walking, i seen some things on the ground. i looked good and seen a drivers license and a credit card. i picked it up and had to look around me. why? because i thought somebody was setting a trap. i pick it up, i use it to buy a new speargun, and i get arrested. haha…

the person didn’t even sign the credit card. can you imagine if a bad person found these cards? they would be shopping and shopping all day long. but me? i only bought a speargun with it. haha… just joking. i went to the neighbors house to ask if it was hers and it happened to be her friends. lucky girl…

matsu emailed me and said he’s on his way back to hong kong from the mentawai’s. this was the last day. the last day is hard to leave the boat because you know that your dream is over and reality is waiting for you as soon as you step off the boat. that’s the part of boat trips i hate. but when you think on the brighter side, you can take the experiences you learned and make your life better…. then save money and go on another boat trip!! i got 2 lined up this year and i’m still looking for more chances. any chance i get to go on a boat trip, i take!!! you should too….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide