i pulled up to sunset this morning. the waves were 6-8 with 10′ sets. i had my 7’6 in the car and watched and watched. the waves didn’t look that good but once in a while i seen a pretty nice barrel in the inside bowl. kinsan and nakajima-san were in the water shooting photos so i thought i better work. i paddle out, get a couple of waves, then decided to sit in the inside and talk story to kinsan and nakajima-san. to tell you the truth, i had a better time talking story and laughing then surfing. haha… sitting in the channel watching people break their boards, dropping in, or just getting in the way was really fun!!!
around lunch time, north shore got really cloudy and dark so i was out of there. right after i came down the hill towards town, i could see the blue sky!!! and i got happy!!!
i went from dark to light in 30 minutes. people wonder why i love town. this is why!! the north and east side could be cloudy and rainy but town is always sunny!! i love the blue sky!!!
i shot ehukai sandbar yesterday. check out some of the action!!!
this is noah mizuno getting ready for a blue barrel!!!
here is finn. this kid rips!!! i got a lot of other photos i will post tomorrow. i’m too tired to even type anymore….
goodnight….
