Just GO and NEVER look back!

320

good midnight. i finally have a chance to sit down with wifi and post this blog. i blinked, and i was gone. now i’m in japan enjoying friends and good food. yeah, i feel like i’m dreaming. please don’t wake me up.
this is my blog from yesterday. enjoy!
there was something i wanted to attend in japan. but been so busy that it didn’t even cross my mind to go. i just didn’t think about it until i was surfing the day before. i thought to myself, “japan is close, why not go even if it’s for a day?” so i go home, book a ticket for the 9am flight leaving the next morning. then next morning comes and i wanted to get a few waves before my flight. i surf bowls and it’s the best waves of the year. i get so many good waves that i didn’t want to go in. i know there is a 11:30 flight so as i’m riding a wave, i see my 9am flight take off and fly over me. 9:45am nears and i better go in. i change, jump on the harley, and speed to the airport. get there at 10:30 and as i’m waiting at the gate, the delta staff tells me, “sir, the 9am flight had mechanical problems so it turned around and is heading back to hawaii. we might have to put those passengers on this flight so you might get bumped off.” OMG! 11:30am nears as i see the 9am delta flight return. luckily they are minutes too late so they let me on the airplane, the close the door, and we take off. lucky! things happen for a reason right? i truly believe that.
i get a very good seat, i turn off my phone, and get ready for a relaxing 8.5 hour flight to the land i love. then i arrive, it’s 6 degrees!!! OMG, so cold! i arrive at 4:02pm, walk to customs and the guys asks me “where is you luggage?” i tell him, “right in my backpack.” i run to the 4:15 narita express and head to ofuna where i have to switch trains. there was a super long line and when the train pulled up, it was already packed! i squeezed in like a sardine in a can, and was stuck in the same position all the way to chigasaki. what a great experience!
i get to chigasaki at 6:30pm, naoka, toda-san, and takami-san come to pick me up. we jump in the van and pick up matsuo, then meet tokura-san for a super fun shabu shabu dinner. gosh, it feels like home. 11pm comes and i’m falling asleep. i close my eyes and wake up to look at my phone. it’s only 2:10am!!!! i try to go back to sleep but can’t. so here i am writing this blog and hopefully get back to sleep. only here till tomorrow so better get things done. have a wonderful cold day. i’m freezing!!!!
photo 1
yes, bowls was so good that i couldn’t come in. lucky me right?
photo 2
only in hawaii i can wake up, surf for 2 hours, jump on a motorcycle, head to the airport, and catch a flight to japan.
photo 3
there is parking at the airport. when i land tomorrow, i hope the harley is still there.
photo 4
yeah, it’s nerve racking to go to the airport not knowing if you can get on a flight or not. japan is so close, but yet so far.
photo 5
then once you’re on, you’re on. i got my luxury seat, watched 2 movies, took a nap, read a book, and next thing you know, i was in japan.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide