good morning. 6 am and hello to big waves on the north shore. and hello to our new south swell. bowls is head high and going off now. i seen a wave peel all the way across. there is no wind and the conditions are PERFECT!!! let our endless summer continue!! i’m going to grab my camera and shoot bowls in the morning, then go surf a secret spot around the corner and surf, surf, and surf when the tide drops. have a great day and see you in the water..
I MISS JAPAN!!! it’s been almost 3 months since my last trip to japan. i love everything about it and now that my friends are going back, i wish i could go back too. i was on the phone yesterday with my travel agent trying to get a flight next month. i freakin can’t wait!!!
i miss the culture. everything and everywhere fascinates me….
i miss the food. especially the sashimi….
i miss the diving. especially the deep blue…
and i miss the waves. i can hear the typhoons calling me….
**as soon as i board my flight to japan, i’ll probably piss in my pants from all the excitement!!! haha…
