good evening. went to dawn patrol the north shore this morning. it felt so good to be back in the water. the waves weren’t as good as i thought but the conditions couldn’t be any better. no wind, no clouds, super sunny, and super clear water. it was paradise! i surfed this morning for 3 hours and 1.5 this afternoon. i’m pretty sunburnt and tired. but no jet lag at all. yeah!
the conditions at pipe couldn’t get any better. it doesn’t get any more beautiful than this.
then was i was leaving, i could feel the west wind coming. this is how it looked in the afternoon. on days like today, timing is important. you have to know where and when to go or you could end not even surfing.
i pull into my house at 11:30am with my plate lunch. i check the conditions and ala moana was perfect! we were supposed to surf at 2pm but i had a feeling the winds were coming too. so i called up Inaida-san and we surfed at 12:30 instead. that turned out to be a great decision because look what happened later in the day?
yeah, we got out of the water at 2pm and it was still good. then this is what happened shortly after. we scored perfect waves with nobody around.
these next 5 days are going to be tricky because of the wind and weather. it can switch in an instant so better be prepared if you want to surf good waves. strong south winds predicted tomorrow so north would be best. or if you’re lucky, you can score somewhere else. good luck!
