good evening. what a humbling day for me. i pulled up to haleiwa around lunch time and seen only 4 guys out. the waves looked 3-5′ with some 6′ sets. i grabbed my 6’2 and paddled out. right when i got out, i got a wave, then another, then another. i was in such a good rhythm catching a few 6′ sets all the way through. then one of my old time friends paddled out and we were talking. he was surprised how small the waves were because other spots were way bigger. right after that, i paddled for a clean 5′ wave and missed it. i turned around and there it was!!! a huge freak double up solid 8′ set building up and coming right for me. should i keep on paddling in? should i paddle out and try to make it through? nah…. i’ll just save my energy and stay where i was and take it like a man. the thing kept on growing and getting thicker. right where nobody in this world would want to be on this beautiful aloha friday, i was there. right in the impact zone of this monster that’s about to come down on my head. ok, i throw my board on the side and swim under. BOOM!!! the wave blows me up and throws me around like a rag doll. i was under water for a while and i knew that there were more sets behind so i better start swimming up. the force was still pushing me down and when i felt the reef, i said to myself “shit, i’m deep down and in less then 5 seconds, i knew the other one is right behind. so i push off the reef and almost make it to the top, then “BOOM” again. the other wave pounded me down again and i thought i was going to die. i can survive a 2 wave hold down but 3 waves in a row? no way. luckily the 2nd wave didn’t hold me down as long so i made it back up. took a deep breath, and “BOOM” again. then i came back up and “BOOM” again. i got pounded for 5 waves in a row and when i came up, i was almost in the haleiwa harbor. i caught a white wash in and called it a day. getting held underwater for 2 waves is a humbling experience. and almost drowning is also a very humbling experience. it’s happened to me many of times and it makes me really think about my life. do i want to die? no. can i die? yes. knowing that your life can end in a flash makes you humble. and humble is was i was all day long….
yeah, read the signs before you paddle out. i and many locals still believe that when haleiwa is over 8′, it’s one of the most dangerous waves in the world. next time i go out on a big day, i’m going to do what i use to do before. which is to paddle my hardest for a wave, and if i miss it, keep on paddling in and go all the way around to get back out. i don’t want 5 thick monster 8′ sets on the head ever again. i’d rather be on the beach in waikiki sipping a maitai[:????????????:]
or better yet, i’d rather be on my boat kissing a fish[:?????????:]
