Hajimete is First Time….

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good evening, what a long day!!

it was about 24 years ago when the last time we had a tsunami warning. i was working at my full time at a parking lot in waikiki when i heard the sirens. i panicked and wanted to leave but my boss said i have to stay to collect money from cars evacuating the hotel parking lot. i remember working till the last minute until a civil defense worker came and told me to get the heck out of there. that made me realize i had the wrong boss. even though nothing happened today, i want to praise every boss out there that let their workers go home early this morning. you have good morals and values. and too my boss 24 years ago, you suck!!! haha….

i went to my sisters house early this morning to help her evacuate. while i was loading up the car, i decided something. “i’m lucky i live in the mountains…” whether it be a blackout, earth quake, tsunami, hurricane, or anything. my house is the evacuation plan….

our government praised all the residence of hawaii for their cooperation. the only stupid person in the state of hawaii was this tourist swimming out at waikiki. i was watching the CNN news and when they showed this live video of waikiki, there was a tourist in the ocean swimming. want to know what the CNN reporter said? “i’ve never seen such an idiotic thing in my life.” i agree….
***i checked the waves this morning and seen something i haven’t seen in my whole life.

nobody out at pipe/backdoor….

nobody out at ala moana bowls….
**anyway, we dodged a disaster today. it was a really good test for our state. was hawaii ready? i think so and i feel much safer living here… thanks to everybody who worked hard and kept our people safe today. i hope everywhere in the world is like hawaii so millions of lives can be spared…. good night….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide