good morning. 6:30 am saturday morning. small waves on the north shore. small east swell in town. still kind of windy but if you look good, you can find a really perfect wave today. wanna know where? umm….. i’m going surfing!!! have a great day!
i came home for lunch yesterday. then i checked the surf on the internet. big east swell, trade winds, and low tide? yup, straight to diamond head. i’m not going to tell you where i surfed. i’ll just explain. it was only me, and the whole ocean. nobody was out at this point right. the waves were 4′ and going off. from the beach, it looks like crap, from the water, going off. i caught so many good waves until i got bored of surfing by myself. have you ever seen diamond head parking this empty? where the heck is everybody?
these are the kind of days i like at diamond head. when it’s nice and calm, 100 surfers are out. but when it’s challenging like yesterday, nobody wants to go out there and duck dive 100 waves in an hour. but for me, i love it….
i stopped by the hawaiian humane society yesterday and seen this cool dog. he’s a 3 month boxer and some lucky person can adopt this cutie…. hurry up and get down there because this boy won’t last too long….
he was telling me “take me home.” i was saying, “sorry dude, i travel too much.”
this dog was looking for new parents too. if your looking for a free member to your family, the hawaiian humane society is the call….
