Women Surfer Riding Huge Waimea….

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good morning. 7am on this windy cold monday morning. i’m in sweatpants, sweatshirt, and socks and i’m still cold. the winds are still blowing north and the water must be freezing… waves on the north shore are still bumpy and ugly. nobody is out at pipe now and it came down a lot from yesterday. town has some waist/chest high waves if you can wait in the cold. 5 guys out at bowls. i drove by kewalo’s to bowls yesterday on my boat and everybody looks super cold. i was in my full-suit and was freezing on my boat. the sun is out today so it should be a little warmer. so keep warm today and be safe. surf or dive. i’m doing one or the other… or maybe both? gosh, what a life…..

OH MY GOSH!!! who is this chick charging waimea bay the other day? and how did she get this wave to herself? this is the biggest wave i’ve ever seen a girl ride… ever…. check out her sequence and the rest of the photos at waimea bay on GO-NAMINORI BY CLICKING HERE….

and this is what they teach kids in elementary school here in hawaii. Be a STAR Student!!!
Show respect
Treat others with kindness
Always be safe
Reach for the stars
**if you can follow this, you will be a great person. and if you can’t, better go back to elementary school….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide