when i was in high school, a bunch of my surfer classmates use to speed down the hill on our bicycles or skateboards after school finishes. it was a mad race to get into the water and catch the first wave. and we’d surf till dark. then we would go back home so excited for the next day so we could do the same thing. so yesterday morning, i revisited one of the secret surf spots from my childhood days. the wind was calm, the sun was shining, and the ocean couldn’t have been any better. i paddle out, nobody is around for miles and miles. i catch some perfect waves and felt like i was a kid again. complete silence. then i see a guy paddling out from far away. he’s coming to my spot? then as he gets closer, he smiles, i smile, and there he was, my childhood surfer friend. we go back 30 years, he went his way, i went my way. now we meet again in the same exact surf spot we use to surf together. we laugh, we talk about the good old days, we exchange waves, and as i paddled in, i felt like a kid again. it’s days like yesterday that made me realize how surfing is so important to me. and also made me realize how going back to my roots calms my mind, body, and soul.
then i surf ala moana bowls in the afternoon. no parking, so many people, beginners, tourists, police, homeless, and angry locals. welcome back to the fast life of surfing! haha. i love it! and knowing that my secret peaceful surf spot is only 20 minutes away makes me happy. i’ll be going back there a lot more.
surf your dream!
