good evening. check out how beautiful diamond head was today. the waves were shoulder high with perfect conditions. naoka and i went to jump into bowls for a session. only had 2 guys out when we got out and when the waves came, it was super clean. and the water was crystal clear too. wish i had my mask and spear… haha…
i was pho shock today. went to mccully shopping center to eat at my favorite pho restaurant on the island, viet cafe. walked to the door and tried to open it. shit, i was closed… closed forever. pho shock…. so i went to pho saigon to eat one. it’s pretty good but not as good as viet cafe….
surf/dive. such a great combo. especially when your stuck on a boat for 12 days. surf or no surf, your happy. i went to fiji a while ago and was on a boat for 2 weeks. that time, i didn’t bring my dive gear so when the waves was shitty, i didn’t have anything to do. so i just drank gallons and gallons of kava with the locals while they sang all night long. after checking out this hawaii skin diver fiji video clip, now i wish i took my dive gear. oh well, there’s always next time… bula fiji….. by the way, in the photo above is takayuki fukuchi, me, and tokura-san on a Dove boat trip in 1999. launched from nadi, went around tavarua and ended up down south at this island called kandavu. strong kava, warm hearts, and paradise…
i’m not sure but that surf spot in the video looks like frigate pass. that wave is sick!!! take off head high, kick out double overhead…. i want to go back again someday…
and last, check out the 5 day weather forecast for hawaii. yuck!!! rain..[:??$B!/(B:][:??$B!/(B:][:??$B!/(B:] oh well, there’s always diving….
