good evening, what a long day!!! it all started off dawn patrol north shore!!! the sunrise was so dam amazing…
haleiwa was going off!!! 4′ and 3 guys out. where is everybody???
then i went to tracks on the west side. chest high and PERFECT!! had only one guy out and when after he went in, there was nobody! score!!!
then i checked diamond head. chest high and fun but i was to dam tired…
i ended up surfing bowls with only 2 other guys out.
then i went to kewalo’s to check the waves. seen seth there. they just finished the NSSA REGIONAL EVENT there earlier and seth won 2 divisions. the kids on FIRE[:???????????(J\(B:] somebody pour water on him….
message to matchi from seth: hey uncle matchi, the new board you shaped for me works really good. it’s good on the airs!! i’ll see you in japan soon!!! thanks so much.
anyway, tony, seth, isaiah, and i are heading to japan, then to bali, then back to japan. after these kids get a taste of epic perfect surf everyday, their level is going up another notch. i can’t wait to see their eyes when they see perfect indo barrels….
i’m going down[:Zzz:][:Zzz:] i’m sunburned, my eyes are red, and my arms are sore from paddling too much. good night[:Zzz:][:Zzz:]
