good evening. jumped in the water before 7:30 am this morning. kaisers looked good so i paddled out there first, surfed it for 1 hour, then paddled down to rockpiles and surfed it there for 1 hour. then seen bowls empty so paddled down there and surfed for 2 hours. i got out of the water past 11:30 am and i don’t remember the last time i surfed so long. it was hot, but cold. hot sun that sunburned my face, and cold wind that made me shiver. but all in all, i had an awesome session and caught some good waves…
i got new boards but been too busy to put stickers and wax it up so i pulled out my thunderbird from my garage. this board is 5’8 and works so dam good. i could surf for 10 hours straight on this board….
after a long surf session, my body needs to fuel up. so i headed to cooke street diner and ordered the shoyu chicken/beef stew plate. then my friend down there gave some korean spicy chicken to go along… oishikatta!!!
then i needed something sweet so where do i go? to waiola shave and ordered a strawberry shave ice with ice cream and azuki beans. after i ate it, i was cold again…. shivering cold[:???:][:???:]
then i headed to waikiki, grabbed a stand up paddleboard, and paddled around for 2 hours. i caught some nice long waves and had so much fun!! great exercise…
when ever i see a moon fish, i always flash back to the time i seen the hugest sun fish in indonesia. i went down and almost speared the thing because i thought it would taste like these moon fish we have in hawaii. good thing i didn’t because that fish was the diving attraction of the island we dove off. they look the same but just different color. we call the moon fish “opah” and if you see it on a menu in a fine dining restaurant in hawaii, expect to pay $40 for a small piece…..
**anyway, i’m so burnt out. tired and need some shade and sleep. but once the sun comes out tomorrow, i’ll be doing the same thing. i have to enjoy and maximize my last 2 days here in paradise before i go to another paradise. “barrel paradise”….. it takes 2 days to get to bali but it’s worth it!!! good night…
