good evening. gosh, i’m burnt out!! totally fried from too much sun. i was in the water so much that i feel like a fish!! the south swell just can’t keep me out of the water!!!
waikiki was BIG too. some of the outer reefs were breaking. i haven’t seen it that big in a long time…
i went surfing with takeda-san. i took him out to this semi secret spot called “seconds”. that’s where i learned how to surf so a lot of childhood memories came back. takeda-san caught some really good waves and we had a great time….
then this afternoon i went to look for somewhere to surf because the waves were pumping. i drove through ala moana park and couldn’t find parking. right as i was going to give up and leave the park, this guy was pulling out so i pulled in. and then i went out to big rights and pulled in all day!!
today was probably the best day i’ve ever surfed big rights. why? because after surfing there for over 25 years, i got my best barrel ever today. i paddled out and it wasn’t too crowded to begin with, then everybody started going in. why? because it was cold. i had my long sleeve top so i felt as warm as can be. then just as the crowd thinned out, the sets started coming in. solid 4′ sets and i was getting barreled on every one i caught. then after an hour of surfing, i told myself that i had enough so the next one i was going in. i waited for a set and here it came. a solid 5′ set rolling in and then backed off. it started to double up on the reef so i paddled deep behind the peak, took off, pulled in, and got the biggest and best barrel i’ve ever gotten out there. i was so stoked and came in. usually, i would get greedy and go back out and surf for 3 hours but not today. i have to pack for bali. haha…
i’m so surfed out that when i pull up to the beach in bali, i’ll probably sit under an umbrella and order a cold bintang. i deserve it.[:?????????:]
as i was driving home with the biggest smile on my face, i thought to myself “hey, i don’t think there is another happier surfer than me on this planet. and if there is, i’d like to sit down with him and have a drink[:?????????:]
i haven’t had a beer in a long time but i’ve been running on the coolest natural high ever. i feel happy, energetic, crazy, and talkative. the same way i feel when i drink beer. haha… please don’t anybody bring me down. i’ll hate you for that….
