Diamond Mt. Fuji….

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good morning. 5 am and i couldn’t sleep. kept on dreaming of barrels. now i better go get some. see you in the water….
as for yesterday, i forgot to thank the boys in the water at big rights. and thank the boys that wasn’t in the water at big rights. it was empty and i’m just curious how today will be. there’s only one way to find out….

i drove by diamond head yesterday evening to see how big it was and oh my gosh!! it was the biggest i’ve ever seen it in a while. solid 6’+ and really coming from the south/west. no wonder big rights was going off. i seen 2 broken boards yesterday and probably a lot more today…

since i was a kid, i’ve seen hundreds of bicycles stolen with only the part that was locked up left. could you imagine locking your bike before school, then after class, come back to only a tire? that must suck…

no, this is not in indonesia. no, this is not in the philippines. this is puena point on the north shore of oahu. cool yeah….

deeptuber has been sending me some cool photos. this one is my favorite so far…. diamond mt. fuji… i love it…

and last, recognize this guy? he just robbed the First Hawaiian Bank. if you know him, call the police….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide