Bali Diary: DAY 1

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hello from bali, gosh, it took a long time to get here but i’m glad i made it here safe. from hot hawaii, to snowing japan, to hotter bali. my body doesn’t know what to feel anymore. and the jet lag? what time is it now? we slept at 3 am last night and woke up at 5 am. in between that, i went to use the toilet and thought i seen isaiah and seth watching a movie on the computer? i thought i was dreaming but i wasn’t.
today, we surfed keramas early morning. i thought i was in japan because there were more japanese surfers than anything. i’d say 15 or so? but some i knew so it was pretty cool. small world we live in…
after our morning session, it was either come back to changu to do my blog? or a nice 1 1/2 hour massage at cozy? that was an easy call. sorry…
then an evening session at changu. the waves were glassy and super fun!!!
oh, i tried to get my phone turned on but no can do. looks like i won’t have a phone this time so hold the calls…
anyway, gotta get going to dinner, then our avocado/chocolate shake to finish up the day. tomorrow morning is dawn patrol again. i just can’t stop laughing at the expressions of isaiah, seth, and kazuma’s faces when they see something weird. coming to bali for the first time can freak anybody out… but they will get used to it soon..
check out some photos…

keramas is such a cool place. so close to the beach, so warm, and so barreling…

this is our gang. seth, kazuma, sa-chan, tony, kimura-san, isaiah, muramatsu-san, and kazubo-san. yes, we don’t just hang out in okinawa and hawaii, we hang out in bali too. day 1 was super fun and can’t wait till day 2…

it’s always nice to see chigusa. she’s pretty much the most hard core traveler pro bodyboarder in japan. she was coaching 3 young aspiring pros that were ripping this morning. check out her cutie pie baby…. got some great fish eye photos i will post later. for now, i’m hungry so it’s Makan Time… see you later….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide