Hawaiian Paddle

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OMG, how was the heavy rain all day long!!! wet hawaii will turn green in a few days. but for now, get use to the rain because it will be here for a few more days. i went for a sunrise surf this morning and it felt so good. nobody out, fun waves, and just me and nature. then surfed this afternoon again. it was a sunny day for me!
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hello Mr. Takeda-san, glad you had a great time in hawaii. thanks for the photos and hope to see you again soon.
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and to Mrs. Takeda-san, it’s so fun seeing you catch so many long waves. keep warm in japan and keep on surfing.
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and your paddle you bought in hawaii looks so beautiful in your house!
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last, i miss going on short trips. i remember this time we all went to molokai to film a hawaii skin diver tv program. it took me back to hawaii 100 years ago with all the beautiful untouched nature and all the aloha. my boat is ready for a molokai trip, my paddle board is too, but my schedule isn’t. the next time i get 2 days off and the weather is nice, i’m going to molokai!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide