good evening. another long hot day here in bali. it’s been a while since i’ve sweated like this. good thing we have air conditioner or i’d lose weight everyday. well, day 2 has been great. all started off with surf at a secret beach break that’s not on the surf maps of bali yet..
early morning surf check…
we pulled up to this secret beach break early this morning. barrels and barrels of fun!! check out seth getting barreled… as i was watching, i was trying to figure out where i’d seen a beach break like this before….
this is mao terashima from wakayama. i remember this little kid when he just started surfing. i was really surprised on his progress. he was ripping!!!
isaiah’s been trying to do this superman trick. i think this is the one they do on motocross motorcycles? flying high…
oh, now i remember where this beach break reminds me of…. it’s like puerto escondido in mexico!!! yeah, a lot of barrels and if you find one, it could be the best beach break barrel of your life. and if you don’t find one, you could break your board in a second. i wish we had one of these beach breaks in hawaii. i bet everyone wishes….
anyway, we’ve been surfing, eating, surfing, eating, surfing, and eating. i’m full of surfing, and full of eating….
